Upcycle Inspiration - Applique Wool Shirt
a Dharma featured project
By Carmen L.
This tale begins with a Pendleton wool shirt that had a tragic encounter with some Tineola bisselliella, wool moths, in a drawer. A holier shirt would be hard to find but it was structurally sound and well sewn despite the carnage so a rescue mission was undertaken. This shirt was given to me in the fall when the persimmons were ripening and the leaves were falling. Known as the fruit of the gods, persimmons are symbolic of transformation, good luck and abundance!
Let's get started!
Originally a blue and gray plaid, the first step was to wash and overdye the wool shirt with Dharma Acid Dye #452 Forest Green. The moth holes didn't get worse in the dye process as the fabric was essentially sturdy.
Learn about tub dyeing basics with Dharma Acid Dye
Next, each hole needed patching, but no ordinary patch would do. The applique patches were cut from our Virgin Wool Felt that was dyed with several Dharma Acid Dye colors with low immersion techniques that give the persimmon appliques a dimensional look.
The wool felt is rather fluffy but it compacts and becomes thinner after it is dyed.
The colors I used were; Dharma #417 Tobacco Leaf, #441 Peach Blush, #452 Forest Green, #460 Saffron Spice, #461 Avocado and Jacquard Acid dye #640 Fluorescent Yellow.
I sketched the shapes for the fruits and leaves and then made cardboard templates. The cardboard templates were easy to trace around with a pen to mark the wool felt. Sharp scissors are important for clean cuts in wool felt. I cut multiple appliques for each shape using the color variation to create the look of dimension. I played with arrangement and colors to achieve an asymmetrical balance. The moths helped the placement of the patches.
Download Applique Template PDF
Learn about Low Immersion Acid Dyed Yarn and Wool
The appliques were sewn on with yarn that was dyed with the wool felt so the colors would be coordinated. Some commercially dyed crewel yarn was also used. Sock yarn with nylon could be used as a substitute for the crewel yarn. The single strand of the sock yarn is similar to a single strand of the crewel yarn. Dyeing several shades of the same or similar colors adds interest.
I used two sizes of embroidery hoop to keep the fabric flat while sewing and also to prevent me from accidentally sewing the front and back together. I used the 10" hoop for large areas and the 4" hoop for the sleeves. A large eye embroidery needle was used to sew the applique patches. The appliques were sewn with a simple blanket stitch with a single strand of yarn. Some of the hems on the shirt had "chewed" edges. I blanket stitched over the edges to secure the raw edged fabric.
The wool felt is soft and easy to stitch. Play with the yarn colors on the different patches to mix up the look. "Mistakes" get lost in the whole. Just have fun.
Shop Janlynn Wood Embroidery Hoops
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